Not really a FULL write up...I ran out of time before the end. Hopefully it will help some.

I spent many hours in the garage on Saturday doing my timing belt, balance belt, water pump, drive belts, cam seal, crank seal, balance shaft seal and sea foam treatment/oil change. Here's a little write up.

First thing you need to do is make sure you can get the crank bolt loose. Its factory installed at 185 ft.-lbs. and it usually much tighter than that over the years. I spent over an hour on just this step. My 3/4" impact wouldn't budge it. Next thing I tried was using my Moroso Honda crank tool, three extensions, a breaker bar and a jack handle. Nothing. Next, I lengthened the cheater bar by using a 6ft piece of 1.5" exhaust tubing angled so it was about 6ft off the ground.

Nothing. This time I added more angle to the cheater bar. Just to give you an example of how much pressure I had on this, the cheater bar was angled so that it touched the ceiling in my garage. I had it pulled down to the floor and it didn't break loose!!! I finally found a propane cylinder that wasn't empty and heated the crank bolt up a bit, put my giant cheater bar assembly back on and let 'er rip. About two feet from the floor I got a giant POP!! I either broke the socket or the bolt came loose. Luckily, the bolt came loose.

Drive belt removal:

You will need to lift the power steering reservoir out of its holder and slide the washer filler neck out as well. This will give you better access to the bolts. Loosen the upper and lower power steering pump bolts. I believe they're both 12mm and the adjuster is 10mm. I actually remove them so I can move the pump out of the way. Just makes it easier to work.

Then you'll need to loosen the alternator pivot bolt and the lock nut that keeps the adjuster in place. 14mm on the pivot and 12mm on the lock nut.

The adjuster lock bolt is under the alternator and I couldn't get a picture of it.

Loosen the alternator adjuster which you can see if you look down at the compressor. It's a 10mm as well.

Valve cover:

Remove the spark plug wires, PCV valve, cruise cable and breather hose from the valve cover. Remove the 4 chrome acorn nuts (10mm) and the ground wire (10mm) and then pry up on the valve cover to free it from the head. BTW, this is what a 216k mile well maintained valve train should look like. The picture is way darker than it actually looked under there. I was VERY surprised that it was so clean. Not a single bit of sludge buildup anywhere.

Motor mount and front covers:

Support the engine with a floor jack and remove the side engine mount. 2 17mm bolts/nuts on the engine, 1 17mm bolt through the mount and 1 10mm ground strap bolt.

Remove the 10mm bolt holding the dipstick in and then remove the dipstick and tube. I believe they have 7 10mm bolts holding the timing covers on. 2 holding the upper cover and 5 holding the lower. I couldn't get good shots of them so you might have to look for them.  I had one casualty on the upper. The nut and bolt seized and I had to break them to get it apart. Thankfully I had extra engines in the garage to steal parts from. Also, remove the rubber washer that is around the timing belt adjuster nut. That's the one 14mm nut kind of sticking out for no reason in the middle of the lower cover.

The lower cover is a bear to get out but after raising and lowering the engine and wrestling with it, it finally came out...the bottom. It will NOT come out the top so don't try it.

Timing belt:

Rotate the engine over by hand until the #1 cylinder is at TDC. There's a mark on the large balance shaft pulley on the crank that will line up with the mark on the block. Notice the red marks on that and the pulley to the right. The nice technician that worked on this car in the past did that to help align everything during assembly. It's a good idea since you can't see the alignment mark on the block once the belts on.

If you are doing all the front seals, before you release the tension on the belts, loosen the cam gear and balance shaft retaining bolts. It makes things much easier later. Remove the 14mm nut from the tension adjuster. This will allow you to remove tension from the balance belt so you can slide the belt and lower pulley off. Then you can remove tension from the timing belt and take the belt off. If you're not replacing front seals, you can skip the next part.

Front seals:

You need to remove the cam gear and the back portion of the upper timing cover to get to the cam seal. 12mm holding the gear on and 2 10mm holding the rear cover on. If your seal looks like this, you need to replace it.

Just pry it out with a small screwdriver. To install it, take a deep socket that is roughly the same outside diameter as the seal and tap it back into place with a hammer until the seal is even with the outer surface of the head.

If your crank seal looks like this, you'll need to replace it as well.

Same procedure as the cam seal.

The balance shaft seal is the same as the rest. Mine wasn’t leaking but since they are prone to failure, and I was already in there, I replaced it as well. If you don't have some kind of retainer added to yours like this...GET ONE!!

My seal was so loose it slid back into the block with VERY little pressure. Also notice the alignment marks on the shaft and the block. You'll need those later on.

As a side note here, there is an o-ring seal on the balance shaft housing. The one closest to the firewall. Mine was leaking slightly but I did not have a new o-ring to replace it with. You might want to pick this up at the same time you get the rest of your parts. I haven’t noticed any problems with mine, but next time, I’ll replace it.

Water pump:

I removed the motor mount bracket attached to the block just to have easier access. You don't have to. I believe there's 5 10mm bolts holding the pump on. One is actually a weird bolt with a tang on the end that a tensioner spring hooks to. Make sure it goes back in the right hole. I also recommend you clean the mounting surface so there's nothing to prevent it from sealing and use some kind of sealer on the o-ring that comes with the new pump. I used Honda bond. You can buy it at any Honda/Acura dealer and it's the best RTV type sealer I've ever used.

Ok, at this point I must confess. I was running behind schedule, it was getting late/cold, starting to drizzle and I had to change the oil and still wanted to install two engine mounts so I stopped taking pictures and started busting hump to get things back together. If you're going to attempt this, I suggest buying a manual. The timing belt and balance belt install can get tricky. I'll try to continue this another time with one of my spare engines so I can get lots of clear pictures.

Hope this helps at least a little. Oh BTW, I still didn't get the mounts installed. That's another project.

Thanks to hidperf of Odyclub for the writeup.